Sand and Gravel Garden Rake

"Dowel-tooth rake"

This rake is much simpler than the saw-tooth rake as far as layout is concerned.  First, mark the tooth positions along the edge of one of the narrow sides of the 2x4 (5x10 cm).  The first mark should be 1 inch in from the end and then every 2 ½ inches (63 mm).  Your 9^th mark should fall 1 inch (25mm) from the other end of the 2x4.  Second, using a carpenter's square or combination square, extend these marks across the 2x4, and then mark the mid-point of each line - ¾ inch (19mm) in from either side.  That's really all there is to the layout.  

Drilling the holes for the dowels can be a bit challenging if you don't have access to a drill press.  I simply used a hand drill - luckily one with a back that is parallel to the drill bit.  I was able to brace the back of the drill against a scrap of 2x4 clamped to the piece that I was working on.  Using this scrap as a guide, I was able to drill more or less straight holes.  I say more or less because even with the support, the holes do tend to be somewhat larger than the drill bit size.  Regardless of the type of drill you use,  I would recommend that you clamp a scrap of 2x4 on each side of the piece that you are drilling to prevent any splitting.  Drill the holes approximately one inch deep.  If you need to, wrap a piece of tape around the drill bit to mark the desired depth.

Cut the dowel into lengths equal to the desired length of the teeth plus the depth of the holes that they will fit into.  I made my teeth 3 inches (76mm) in length, so adding 1" (25 mm) for the part that fits into the 2x4, I cut each tooth 4 inches (10cm) long.  I  thought about various methods that I could use to fasten the teeth into the 2x4, but I finally decided to simply glue them in place.  I decided that if any of the teeth ever broke, I could drill out the old one and simply glue in a new one.  If I had access to a drill press and was able to drill the holes for the teeth more accurately, I might have fastened them in with screws from the side.  As the case was, though, my holes were not terribly accurate and using the glue allowed me to adjust the alignment as the glue dried.

Cut a notch in the center of the 2x4 opposite the edge where the holes for the teeth are located.  The notch should be 1 ½ inches (38 mm) wide and 7/8 inch (22mm) deep.  These dimensions are designed to allow the diagonal braces to meet the handle at its midline if they are fully notched into the top of the rake head so as to be flush with its top surface.  If you use a handle of different dimensions, you should adjust these measurement accordingly.  As with the saw-tooth rake, it is better to cut this notch slightly small and enlarge it to fit the handle using a rasp or coarse sand paper.

To attach the braces to the handle,  first cut the end of the brace at a 45 degree angle, then place it in the desired position against the handle, resting on the back of the rake head.  Make a mark on either side of the brace on the back of the rake head.  Make a cut just inside these marks ¾ inches (19mm) deep, then make a series of additional parallel cuts between them.  Break these "wafers" loose by inserting a chisel into one of the cuts and prying them out.  Using a chisel, trim the remaining waste from the bottom of the groove.

Finally, chamfer the edges of the teeth slightly with a rasp or sandpaper and shape the handle as desired.