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Before you begin this project, please read through
the instructions carefully including the additional
notes and suggestions (see link at the bottom of this
page). There are many ways in which this design can
be modified to meet your particular needs or
tastes.
To see a full-size version of a figure or photo just
click on it.
Materials:
- 30" (76 cm) length of 2x8 (5 x 20cm) lumber
(Note: this is the nominal size of the board, the
actual dimensions are 1 ½" x 7 ½"
(38mm x 19cm) )
- 5 foot (152cm) length of 2x2 (5x5cm) stock
(again, nominal: actual dimensions 1 ½" x 1
½" (38x38 mm) )
- two strips of ¾" (19mm) thick board 1
¼" (32mm) wide by about 24" (61cm) long for
the braces.
- six #8 x 2 ½" (5x60mm) wood screws
- two #8 x 1 ½" (5x40mm) wood screws
Tools:
- cross cut hand saw
- angle measuring device (protractor, drafting
triangle, roofer's quick square, etc.)
- wood chisel ½" to 1" (12 to 25mm) wide
- wood rasp and/or sandpaper
- electric drill
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Start the layout by making a mark 1 ½ inches
(38mm) from one end of the 2x8 board. Continue by
making additional marks every 3 (76mm) inches. The
last mark should fall 1 ½ inches (38mm) from
the other end of the board.
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To layout the teeth, it's easiest to use a 30-60-90
drafting triangle, but a roofer's square,
protractor or other device for measuring angles
will also work. Make two lines from each of the
marks on the bottom edge of the 2x8 (5 x 20cm) -
one at a 60 degree angle to the left and one at a
60 degree angle to the right (angle is measured
from the bottom edge of the board). When this is
done, all of the teeth will be outlined.
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When you cut the teeth, try to keep both the
cutting edge of the saw blade and the sides of the
blade perpendicular to the board surface. This will
give you the best results at the angle where two
adjacent teeth meet as well as insuring that the
teeth are of uniform dimension on both the marked
and unmarked sides of the board. There are several
types of saws that would work for making these
cuts. If you happen to have a jigsaw, use it,
otherwise any hand saw should work. Japanese saws
also work extremely well for this type of
controlled cut since they cut on the pull stroke.
Unfortunately, I left mine in Japan when I moved
back here!.
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To complete the rake head, cut a small notch in the
top of the head to fit it to the handle. The handle
is made from a 2x2 (5x5cm) (actual dimensions 1
½" by 1 ½" (38x38 mm) ) so the notch
should be 1 ½ inches wide and ¾ inch
deep. You want it to fit pretty snugly to form a
tight joint, so cut it a hair smaller at first,
then use a rasp or coarse (#60) sandpaper to
enlarge it for the final fit. Finally, attach the
handle with two #8 (5 mm) wood screws 2 ½ to
3 inches (63 to 76mm) long. Drill a pilot hole for
each screw slightly smaller than the diameter of
the screw to prevent the handle from
splitting.
(Note: Coating the screw threads with a bit of bar
soap makes them much easier to drive!)
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All that remains now is to attach the braces to
make the connection between the handle and head
more stable. Cut off one end of each of the brace
pieces at a 45 degree angle. With the brace held in
place on the side of the handle - approximately 19
inches (48 cm) up from the head end of the rake,
carefully drill a pilot hole through the brace and
into the handle. After drilling the initial pilot
hole in both pieces, change to a larger bit and
drill the hole in the brace again. This diameter of
this hole needs to be close to the diameter of the
screw to prevent it from splitting the brace.
Attach the brace to the handle with a #8 x 1
½" (5x40mm) wood screw. Be careful not to
tighten it too much to avoid splitting the brace.
If the screws are any longer than 1 ½"
(38mm), you may have a problem with the two screws
running into each other in the middle of the
handle.
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Double check to make sure the handle is square to
the rake head using your triangle or carpenter's
square. Drill the pilot holes for the screws that
will hold the head end of the brace. I would
recommend attaching both braces before cutting off
the excess that projects beyond the rake head. Once
this is done, your rake is essentially finished. To
make the rake more comfortable to hold, you might
round the corners off of the handle with a coarse
rasp followed by a good sanding with progressively
finer grits of sand paper - we don't want any
splinters!
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Your rake is now finished!
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