Located in the water front compartment we have the two stairs that lead down to the "water-frond terrace". Also in the water-side compartment we build two narrow utilitarian stairs at both far ends of the water side, that make the water bank better accessible.After the built of the drive we have started building the walls. Between the front garden and the street we have a 3 meter (10 feet) greenbelt. The wall at the front adjoins that greenbelt.
The concrete-tile path came standard (photo: 1999). We have removed it to make place for a real Roji and used these stone (and the pile in the center) for the foundations of our walls.
In the front garden we did this job during the winter, meaning that the ground and the sand where very wet and the area was like a swamp. We had to dig extra trenches to get rid of the excess water. This was an extra hurtle to take while laying the concrete foundation tiles. As there is now way to make any level correction further down the road, it is very important to ensure that the foundation is perfect into all directions. Once that was done, we could begin laying and stacking the bricks.
|Something to be aware of is the level of the street. On this photo our wall-foundation seams to be far too high. However what is the case is the fact that this was not the final street level. Later the street was replaced and raised to only some 10 cm (4 inches) under our foundation level.|
|For practical reasons the "standard" path to the front-door was only removed after the alternatives had been completed.|
|In the bottom-right you can just see the foundation. Later this has been coverer with only a centimeter (0.5 inch) of soil just to offer the grass that grows in the front to cover it.|
All the water front walls are actually
A retaining wall with an earthen bank behind has to carry a very heavy loading. Simple walls of blocks are not able to withstand the pressure and may collapse, or be overturned. The design of these walls involves careful consideration and may in some cases involve calculations of the amount and type of reinforcements that can be required. Here our special purpose "Garden wall" offers great opportunity with the small lips on the rear edge now becoming indispensable.
The wall behind the house is 1 meter 45 cm
high, the base at about 50 cm above water
level. We did not use pillars because it is not
Actually the walls at the back are meant to hold together our steep bank, hence it is a so called "retaining wall". Behind the house it is also meant to carry the duckboards that connect the main garden with the left garden.
The "Garden wall" is a so called dry stone wall and can be used as a low retaining wall.
As you see the wall is an attractive ornamental feature in itself.
These stairs are built with L-shape concrete
stone in the by now well know gray-tones.
The photo right-under shows the lips and notches in the back of the "Garden wall" brick.
Here a sloping piece of ground behind the
O-karikomi is terraced into two
pieces of level ground and the wall is used as
a free-standing wall.
A small strip of the foundation stones is left, just wide enough to be walked upon for maintenance purposes.
The retaining wall at the right water
front is used to divide the bank in two
parts and make it easier maintainable. Mind
you, easier, not at all easy.
This wall is constructed in the same way as the low wall in the front garden.
This narrow utilitarian stairs is built using
the same L-shape concrete stone as those used
for the "water side terrace"
Here you see how it is situated next to the "herb garden terrace", here overseeing the whole left side garden in 1999.
Note the planting.
Here we have the small stairway that connects to the left side of the waterside bank now 10 years later in 2008.
This is one of two utilitarian narrow stairways located on each far end, left and right, of the water front.
|This is the other utilitarian narrow stairways located on the far right of the water front. This is even less of a stair. It is merely just a few descending steps with planting in between. Nonetheless it serves its purpose well and actually is indispensable.|
Here we document what went wrong with regard to the walls and stairs.
Two reasons for the wall to collapse. The incline is very (too) high that in combination with the (too) soft base....!!!!!!!!!!
|Building walls is a profession, so we learned. Below we will comment on what we think went wrong. Prove that we have learned is given as the result of the retry still stands proudly after ten years.|