The paths are constructed based on one of three
methods. For an overview of these methods please see:
Lay
"hard functional" Paving.
The beauty of the paths and terraces is really in the
material, the shapes and the composition but we want
them to last long with a minimum of maintenance
effort.
We have flattened, leveled and tamped the ground and
in most cases laid only a thin layer of sand, just a
few centimeters (one inch) to stable an compact
bearing surface for the hewn-granite slabs and
pieces.
The Roji, that is the path that is laid in
the gravel as well as the terraces have got a
slightly different treatment then the paving for
which we used the 1st method.
For the Roji-path we used the 2nd method, that is the
thin layer of sand was mixed with dry cement. This is
done to ensure that the Tobi-ishi will not move while
stepped on.
The composite Oribe-path 4.a
did get the normal mortar applied, using the "Sand
and cement mortar" method. This is the only
construct for which we used the 3rd method.
The usual mixture for mortar is one part cement to
five parts of clean sand. This is however not what we
used for the "Dry sand-and-cement bed" method.
Instead we used less cement, say one part to every
eight parts of sand. Then before placing the stones
we sprinkled water on the mixture just to make it
moist rather than wet.
The Terraces got a somewhat thicker layer of sand,
some 5 centimeter (2 inches) and before the
granite-slabs where laid we mixed some cement, only
with the upper most layer of sand.
The "water terrace" is the most heavy used one
and was dug-out until we hit the original (white)
sea-clay which is as good as a concrete
foundation.
For all terraces, we wanted moss to grow in the
joins. For that reason we made a mixture of sand and
clay that we put in the joins.As you can see later
on, in this goal we succeeded very well. That is as
long as the Blackbirds and Sparrows not take the moss
apart.
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The composite cut-granite
(Oribe) path in the middle of the Roji
(section C, see: Paths, Roji). Based on the sketches and using the hewn-granite-slabs we had, we puzzled together a path that satisfied or aesthetic expectations and that came close to the anticipated size. Using this prototype we created a wooden framing to hold the mortar. In it we put a layer of 2 to 3 cm (1 inch) of mortar (one part cement to five parts of clean sand). This is slow drying, so no need to hurry. One or two hours will be no problem. |
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After having leveled and flattened the mortar surface and flat we moved the pre-puzzled pieces of granite on top of the mortal will gently tapping them to remove air and slightly drill them into the mortar. To draw extra attention to the "composite" structure we used broad joins of about 2 cm (0.8 inch). After completion we gave it a couple of days to dry completely before we stepped onto it. |
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The finished Oribe-path. After a few years
mosses started growing on the path and in the
joins. Also see: Paths, Roji and The Ginshanada. Note that the raked pattern on the left gets frequently changed. The stone used is hewn granite, flat but rough on the walking surface and about 2 to 2,5 cm thick (up to 1 inch). All stones have at least one straight side. These slabs where acquired from a stonecutter. The interplay of right angles and natural rough and curved forms is thematic in Tsubo-en. |
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The "special purpose stones" where places level
with only a layer of sand, that is without
cement mixed through it. These won't go away
without cement ! Also see: Paths, Roji and The Ginshanada. |
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The front-entrance path is the path with the
Tobi-ishi ("floating stones") stepping
stones. This path shows one of the subtle
design principles. The illusion of depth and
length is reinforced by the fact that the
pathway border is not formed by parallel lines
but constructed to be more narrow at the far
end. To reinforce the optical depth effect of parallel lines converging toward the horizon, the entry of the pathway is made about 25% wider than the far end. Unfortunately this works only from one view position, when looking back from the front door this effect actually eliminates part of the true natural depth. Also see: The front garden compartment. |
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The front entranse doorstep is worth mentioning
here. It is composed of 4 polished granite
slabs of 6 cm (2.4 inch) thick, that we have
broken ourselves from one large plate. It is
the type that is usually used to make a
tombstone. These stepstones "float" in the (gravel) "sea" that the ginshanada symbolizes. |
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This is an example of the Tobi-ishi, "floating
stone" that lay in the Ginshanada, gravel area. The front entrance path and this one that runs through the Ginshanada are constructed in the same way, using the "Dry sand-and-cement bed" method on top of a tamped base covered with Also see: The front garden compartment. |
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This small and narrow utilitarian stairway is
built using gray concrete "L-shape" blocks that
are stacked front to back. To the left and to
the back you see the "herb garden
terrace"and the connecting hewn-granite path
that runs through the middle of the herb
garden. In the front it connects to the paved
path. Also see: The left side compartment. |
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We have yet used an other construction for the
bath that runs along the "water side
terrace" and connects the stairs with the
hewn-granite path that leads to the "hidden
terrace". This is also a simple construction. We have first dug to the required depth and then leveled the soil with minor sloping to the back. Tamping was not required. Then we placed barrier cloth and the brick edge on the right. The gravel we used is called "Ardenner split" as it originates from the Belgium Ardennes. The color is in line with the paving colors you saw before. |
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This is the hewn-granite path as seen from the
"hidden terrace" (2008). Under it just a
centimeter or so (less than one inch) of
sand. Also see: The water front (back side) compartment. |
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In addition to the (main) Veranda in the main garden compartment, as the most important and most prominent terrace we have three additional terraces in the garden. All of these are located in The water front compartment.
Except for the Veranda all the terraces and the paths that lead to and connects them are paved with hewn granite and some marble.
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When the sand is level and evenly firm, lay the
slabs in position, leaving a small gap. . This
is necessary to allow for manœuvre while
forming the puzzle pieces. Dry cement, in a one part cement to eight parts sand, was used to give a firmer base. Here you do not want to apply any water as parts need to be reshuffled before all fits to full satisfaction. The cement sets in time. This photo shows the "water side terrace" just after completion. No moss in the joins yet ! The enclosing wall is built on a foundation of the same big 60 x 40 cm (1.3 by two foot) concrete tiles that where used for all walls. Here these form a frame around the area that is covered with granite. |
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The construction of this terrace is very much
the same as the above described. This shows the "hidden terrace" in 2008. Here the moss has grown nicely in the joins. Also see: The water front (back side) compartment. |
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| This shows the "herb garden terrace" in 2008. Here the moss has grown nicely in the joins. |
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Here we document what went wrong with regard to the paths and terraces.